Climbing Training Intensity: The RPE Method

 

The Rate of Perceived Exertion, or RPE, scale is useful for determining appropriate training intensity for a specific workout. Adapting your training to include this scale will help you maintain focus and achieve your goals.

 

The RPE scale: 

1 – No effort at all

3 – Easy aerocap and active mobility

5 – Bouldering mileage, below flash level and mixed intensity aerocap. Don’t make this too hard!

7 – Flash boulder grade. Having some extra moves left in the tank. If doing a dead hang for 7 seconds, you want to have about 3 seconds of effort left on each rep.

8 – Most strength elements of training at this level. Failure may occur at the end of the last sets of workouts. So you may fall off the end of climbs on your last go.

9 – Max training effort. Project bouldering and on-sighting at your limit during a training phase.

10 – Testing and top performance effort

 


 

Also Read

Pushing Past Your Training Plateau

  • Show Comments

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

comment *

  • name *

  • email *

  • website *

Ads

You May Also Like

Adam Ondra’s Road to Tokyo: Vail Bouldering World Cup

Feature Image by Daniel Gajda   Also Watch Road to Tokyo #23: Back in ...

Tomoa Narasaki’s Revolutionary Step-Up Dyno!

  Last year, 24-year-old Tomoa Narasaki, from Japan, won the Bouldering World Championships for ...

Magnus Midtbø Tries Bruce Lee’s Training Program

  “I don’t know if this will be [directly] beneficial for climbing, but it ...

Get our latest stories, gear, training, and videos in your inbox every week.

I would like to receive emails from: