Janja Garnbret and Tomoa Narasaki Take Gold in 2019 Bouldering World Championships

Hachioji, Japan August 11-18 // Brought to you by Black Diamond


Continuing her historic sweep in the 2019 Bouldering season, Janja Garnbret claimed another World Championship title in Hachioji Bouldering finals. On the men’s side, Tomoa Narasaki took gold in front of his home crowd.

The women’s semifinal round was rough, to say the least. Only the top four athletes achieved tops and three zones was enough for finals. The only female athlete from the U.S. in semifinals was Kyra Condie. Condie finished the round in 14th after achieving two zones in 13 attempts. Fanny Gibert (FRA), who was third for the Overall 2019 season, just missed the final qualifying cutoff by two too many attempts to zones. In the final six were Shauna Coxsey (GBR), Miho Nonaka (JPN), Levgeniia Kazbekova (UKR), Nanako Kura (JPN), Akiyo Noguchi (JPN) and Janja Garnbret (SLO).

In the final round, Garnbret, Noguchi and Coxsey all topped the first boulder. Garnbret was the only athlete to top the second boulder—one that no one else could even get a zone on. Kazbekova and Nonaka were the only athletes to top the third boulder, opening up the podium to results of the final boulder. Coxsey, Noguchi and Garnbret all flashed the last boulder. Being the only athlete with three tops, Garnbret claimed her second World Championship title in Bouldering. Noguchi took silver and Coxsey bronze. 

In the men’s semifinal round, Adam Ondra (CZE) was the star of the show. Ondra topped the first three boulders, determined that he had a good lead, and walked away from the fourth boulder with a minute left. He finished the round in first place as the only athlete with three tops. From the U.S., Nathaniel Coleman finished the round in 17th and Drew Ruana missed the final cutoff with two too many attempts to tops. The final six were Jakob Schubert (AUT), Yannick Flohé (GER), Keita Dohi (JPN), Kokoro Fujii (JPN), Tomoa Narasaki (JPN) and Ondra.

The final round did not go as expected, at least for Ondra. Ondra didn’t achieve a single top or zone. He finished his round in sixth. The only athlete to achieve any tops, two no less, was Narasaki. Like Garnbret, Narasaki was the 2019 Overall Bouldering champion. Schubert placed second and Flohé third.

The action continues tonight at 7 p.m. MST in the Lead qualification rounds. After their victories in the first three 2019 Lead World Cups, eyes will be on Chaehyun Seo (KOR) and Garnbret to see who comes out the ultimate winner. Adam Ondra will have his opportunity for redemption after he narrowly missed gold in last year’s World Championships. 

Complete results can be found on ifsc-climbing.org.

Feature Image by Daniel Gajda/IFSC



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2019 World Championships: Schedule and Livestreams

  • Delaney Miller is a three time U.S. Champion in the open Sports Climbing Series. In total, Miller has won 12 Championship titles between youth and adult, National and Pan-American competitions. She has three years of coaching experience and a degree in Health and Exercise Science from Colorado State University.

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